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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.