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In the mirror, I seem to have on enormous gilded pantaloons, visible just for my eyes. Youngsters play in a stone basin acting as sea nymphs, and in the next room rests a chatting legume in a display case, next to a tall mound of bedding. It embodies the universe of the beloved author (1805-1875), a leading 19th century’s widely adored writers. I’m in Odense, located on Funen in the south of this Nordic country, to discover the author's timeless impact in his native city a century and a half after his death, and to experience a handful of fairytales of my own.

The Exhibition: HC Andersens Hus

HC Andersens Hus is the local exhibition space honoring the writer, featuring his first home. A museum representative notes that in past designs of the museum there was scant attention on Andersen’s stories. Andersen's biography was examined, but The Little Mermaid were missing. For tourists who visit the city seeking storytelling magic, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redesign of Odense city centre, diverting a main thoroughfare, provided the opportunity to rethink how the renowned native could be honored. An international design contest gave Japanese firm the Kengo Kuma team the contract, with the museum's fresh perspective at the center of the layout. The distinctive timber-clad museum with connected spiralling spaces debuted to great fanfare in 2021. “We have attempted to build a place where we avoid discussing Andersen, but we speak in the manner of Andersen: with wit, satire and outlook,” explains the representative. Even the gardens follow this philosophy: “It’s a garden for strollers and for large beings, it's created to make you feel small,” he explains, a challenge accomplished by thoughtful gardening, experimenting with verticality, size and multiple meandering routes in a deceptively small space.

Andersen's Impact

He authored two and a half memoirs and regularly changed his story. The museum takes this approach to heart; typically the opinions of his acquaintances or snippets of letters are displayed to politely doubt the his narrative of events. “The writer is the storyteller, but he's untrustworthy,” says the curator. The effect is a fascinating rapid journey of Andersen’s life and creations, thinking patterns and best-loved stories. It is provocative and whimsical, for adults and kids, with a extra underground fantasy realm, the fictional village, for the children.

Visiting the Town

Returning to the real world, the small city of the municipality is delightful, with cobbled streets and traditional Danish homes finished in cheerful shades. The Andersen legacy is everywhere: the street signals feature the storyteller with his distinctive formal headwear, bronze footmarks offer a free pedestrian route, and there’s a art walk too. Every August this dedication reaches its height with the yearly Andersen celebration, which celebrates the author’s legacy through creativity, movement, stage shows and musical performances.

Recently, the week-long celebration had hundreds of events, the majority were complimentary. During my time in this place, I encounter painted stilt-walkers, fantastical beings and an Andersen lookalike sharing tales. I hear feminist spoken-word pieces and observe an incredible evening show featuring athletic artists coming down from the city building and dangling from a construction equipment. Upcoming events this year are lectures, hands-on activities and, expanding the narrative tradition further than the writer, the city’s annual enchantment celebration.

All good magical places require a palace, and the island boasts numerous historic homes and estates throughout the region

Cycling and Exploration

Like much of the country, bicycles are the perfect means to navigate in the city and a “cycling highway” winds through the city centre. Departing from Hotel Odeon, I ride to the free harbour-side swimming pool, then out of town for a route around Stige Ø, a compact territory linked by a road to the mainland. City residents picnic here in the evening, or enjoy a quiet hour fishing, water sports or bathing.

In Odense, I eat at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the culinary offerings is derived from author-inspired concepts and stories. The literary work Denmark, My Native Land is highlighted at the restaurant, and proprietor the host shares excerpts, translated into English, as he presents each course. This is a practice frequent in my days in the city, the island inhabitants love a yarn and it feels as though sharing tales is constantly offered here.

Castle Explorations

All good fairytale destinations deserve a palace, and Fyn contains over a hundred manors and estates around the area. Taking day trips from town, I explore Egeskov Palace, the region's finely maintained historic fortress. Despite parts are accessible to the public, Egeskov is also the family home of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his spouse, the royal resident. I contemplate if she would notice a small legume through a pile of {mattresses